Arcade Shenanigans

3D Printed Namco Reunion Dust Washer

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I’ve been meaning the breath some new life into my Reunion Cab for over a year. Around a year ago I knew that would come in some form of the gaming experience provided by Bitkit. That part, was easy. Install the Bitkit. Install some ROMS - have fun.

Unfortunately, the controls on my 20yr Reunion cabinet sort of sucked.

For my Namco 20yr Reunion Cab, I really wanted spring-leaf controls. I play alot of Pac and I don’t like the clicky microswitches for Pac games.

The original 20yr Reunion Controller.

The original 20yr Reunion Controller.

Groovy Game Gear sells a very nice spring-leaf-switch variant based on the dimensions of this joystick.

Unfortunately, it has one serious flaw. If you look at the pictures above, both dust washers have a ton of play between the shaft and the dust-washer-shaft-cut-out. For the original, this wasn’t such a big deal but the Groovy Game Gear remake’s E-clip is constantly popping across that gap. So, you guy the fancy joystick for super smooth operation and you get these random “catches” in the action as the dust-washer and the e-clip interact with one another.

 

3D Printer to the rescue. I design a 3mm dust washer that fits tightly against the ball-shaft, eliminating the e-clip nonsense. The one pictured here was printed on ABS and is working great so far.

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Want the model to make your own? No Problem-o, check it out:
Download link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/88xnewifeacb15u/reunion%20washer%203mm.stl?dl=0

BitKit

Left the dust because - it is real dust. Collector dust.  This way, you know it is real! :)

Left the dust because - it is real dust. Collector dust. This way, you know it is real! :)

When I was growing up, my mom had this sister, that wasn’t actually a blood relative. Through the transitive property of whatever, that made her sister’s three boys my cousins. They were a bit older but were cool to me and I always liked to visit them.

I’d loose innocence by the centimeter every time we’d hang out.

In my memory at least, every one of them was a different avatar of a Jack Black character. They were raised by MTV and Basic Cable, Rock Posters on the walls of their cluttered rooms and the kind of energy you get with three teenaged boys resonating off of one another. I’d spend every car ride home mentally digesting another discovery in heavy metal or some sex-joke I didn’t quite understand yet but knew must be hilarious.

That tangent to express my notion that Bitkit was a secret all the cool kids knew about and I’m just now really discovering. I sort of feel like Bitkit is to my arcade-discovery as Queensrÿche was to my cousin-imposed music discoveries. I knew of the Bitkit, even had one tucked away for later-use for over a year..

But having the Bitkit tucked away is like hearing a single on the radio and playing it is like listening to the full album.

When I first was introduced to Bitkit and started to find out its capabilities as they pertain to specific games, large parts of it go unspoken, I suspect in a deliberate attempt to stay under the radar or not court the wrong type of licensing attention. In this post, I want to shine a little flashlight on the Bitkit. Not a bat-signal to wake the neighbors but maybe a bit of clarity for those of you who know where to look. I don’t want to blow up anyone’s spot here but I do want you to see the potential in this awesome little card and hopefully feel compelled to support the developer of it.

CraftyMech

CraftyMech is among a short credit-roll of stand out names in this hobby for creating awesome tools and being a positive influence. Back when I was struggling to find an MCR Compatible monitor to finish out my Tapper, a friend suggested this neat little tool that I just absolutely had to have. The tool, was the CraftyMech TPG.. I knew the name CraftyMech from numerous helpful KLOV posts and some Broken Token Podcasts.

The TPG is an essential tool for monitor troubleshooting and dial in. Really glad I bought it!

Anyway.. back to Bitkit. Bitkit is a JAMMA-based FPGA of various popular early arcade hardware. If it had a Z80 (even.. 3 of them..), the Bitkit is probably technically capable of playing it. It is sort of similar to the popular JROK-designed wSYSFPGA Multi Williams PCB or the Clay Cowgill designed ArcadeSD PCB (although ArcadeSD is actually really-good emulation, not FPGA).

In a sentence: It is a modern board that can mimic (note, I didn’t use the work emulate) classic arcades with near perfection.

FPGA

To understand what separates boards like Bitkit from the old 60-in-1 Chinese pirate rom PCBs, you need to at least understand what FPGA is. Field Programmable Gate Array’s are user-customizable chips that can be programmed to mimic other hardware.

Imagine the original Atari Centipede boardset where you have a main game board and an audio board / amplifier. The Atari Centipede PCB had something like 32 distinct IC’s, half a dozen ROMS, 3 distinct classes of RAM in 11 different configurations, a micro processor, host of capacitors, transistors and resistors.

Well, if you have sufficient IO & behavior specs for all of that hardware you could arrange it all into a workflow in something like MatLAB and essentially design the entire Centipede PCB as a bin-file that can be flashed into a single chip or chipset. That chip/chipset is the FPGA. Any code the game might have used is missing but you would have recreated the entire hardware platform with the benefit of modern chip design and a placeholder to insert the game code in a ROM slot.

That’s about where my knowledge stops. I do know a dozen or so programming languages from three decades but if you brought me a chip or a populated circuit and said “fPGA this thing” - I wouldn’t know where the F to begin. I’m just going to assume as always that step 1)Drink Bourbon. From there, I’m out of my experience.

In the same way I once blew the mind of a C-Suite exec by explaining on a plane ride to China that I had a near-enough copy of their AS/400 dataset on my cheap laptop, if you really stop and think about it:

We can put 8 billion transistors in your $700 iPhone. We can put 92 billion transistors in a $9,000 industrial fPGA. Of Course we can put a couple million transistors in a $18 FPGA chip like the Spartan-6.

Bitkit, Specifically

On the surface, Bitkit targets some lesser-known titles from the 80’s; games you aren’t likely to see the Stranger Things kids playing or see referenced in 80’s pop culture digests. CraftyMech’s original release of the Bitkit card targeted the SNK 6502 arcade hardware that was used for games like Nibbler, Vanguard, Pioneer Balloon, Satan of Saturn, Zarzon & Fantasy.

Since that initial release, the developer has added support for Pac-man arcade hardware to bring in games like Lizard Wizard, Abscam, Eyes, Pac. I’d personally like to see Van-Van-Car added. I love that game for some stupid reason.

Within a year, the developer added (a targeted subset of) Namco-Galaxian arcade hardware to get games like Scramble, Jump Bug, Amidar, Anteater.

By the end of 2020, he added support for Galaga-alike hardware, which opens up future potential for 3xZ80 games.

 

Bitkit, Reunion. Reunion, Bitkit

The 20yr Namco Reunion cabinet is an odd duck. Galaga’s sounds were just a little off in ways I’m not experienced enough to describe and the decision to hide Pac-man on the game board only to be accessible by a sequence (Up, Up, Up, Down, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, Left) is bizarre to me. Whiskey. Tango. Foxtrot.

The Reunion PCB isn’t known for extreme durability and reliability, either. The giant vertical-orientation monitor makes it novel, as well.

It may be the perfect cabinet for Bitkit.

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The Bitkit came in a USB model originally and now comes in a Bluetooth model. You initially set up the card (upload game roms, download and upload High Scores) from a well made Windows or MacOS app, Bitkit Manager. I have one of each type of card and my general impression is that while Bluetooth sets up easily and works well it does have range limitations, at least for my use-case. I’d hoped to be able to connect from a tower PC in my Gameroom that is 9 ft, 6 in from this cabinet without obstruction. It did connect but the transfer times were painfully slow. It would take over an hour plus multiple re-attempts per ROM file upload.

For comparison, I can use an xBox One Controller on the PC from the same distance and bluetooth transfer between IOS and Android devices in that same distance. All that said, I don’t necessarily fault the Bitkit for Bluetooth range, it is possible that by placing the Bitkit farther from the monitor chassis frame I could have improved the distance but I didn’t feel like redoing all of the cable management in the cabinet, at least not right now. Long term, I’m either going to need to drag a USB extension cable with another bluetooth radio nearby the cabinet or switch it over to my USB spare. All doable and unique to my gameroom layout.

All that said, Bluetooth is cool if you are within a few feet of the cabinet. Once I resigned to carry a laptop over to the cabinet, the setup went smoothly. There is rumor of an IOS or Android version of the Bitkit Manager App - that would solve my distance snafu with style, here’s hoping it happens I have spare iPads and Android tablets coming out of my ears from past dev projects.

 
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The on-screen setup menu system is well appointed but not cluttered, self explanatory features for enabling the ability to boot straight to a game, rearrange or hide game slots and assign buttons. The BitKit is sold as a home-use JAMMA card, so there aren’t pricing options to adjust through menus but since it is full-hardware FPGA on a JAMMAS harness, the coin up buttons do still trigger a credit advance in games I’ve tried. That’s handy if your game room has tokens or a bucket of quarters for guests to play out of.

 
The game selection menu system is a carousel style left or right selection of the game title art.  It has an appealing star field and simple font selection that feel right for this era of games.

The game selection menu system is a carousel style left or right selection of the game title art. It has an appealing star field and simple font selection that feel right for this era of games.

The Bitkit can be put in single game mode and set to boot to a particular game, making it a handy solve, alternative or replacement for older hardware, in a pinch. MsPac board on the fritz? Get a Bitkit. Galaga acting up? Get a Bitkit. I have a friend right now with a stack of problematic Bosconian PCB’s patiently waiting for support to come to Bitkit.

In my cabinet, I have the Bitkit booting to menu and with the full romset and exploring some of these lesser known games will be a large part of my Q1. In Summary: I freaking love this PCB.


Got a Bitkit and looking for roms? Let me save you some time. Go here -> Bitkit/Roms

Joust

Arcade Booty Call

 
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Being around some awesomely free-spirited pinball friends, I observed this pattern of weekend calls in the middle of the night, “Hey, you up for some Pinball?”

I started to play around with the this concept of a “Silver Ball Booty Call”. I used the name for some tournaments, I even have a domain or two…some shirts… a twitter handle..

Arcades have Booty Calls too, though. Arcade Booty Calls come in two flavors.

[Wanna Play?]
-and-
[Wanna Buy?]

..and because of quality decision making while 1/2 into a celebratory bottle of holiday whiskey, late at night…

I got a Joust!

Buying a Joust makes absolutely no sense at all. I have an original Robotron cabinet with a Multi-Williams PCB and spare Multi-Williams control panel in it. It plays Joust - just fine.

I have been doing… hurricane cleanup involving many-many trees, tile work, fence repair and replacement, carpentry work, electrical rewiring in the kitchen. I didn’t want another project, right now.

On top of all that, I’ve been noodling around the idea of shedding a few games to make more room for a bar-space, hangout area & VR stuff. I’m currently at 14x Arcades, 4x Pinballs and 1x [whatever Ice Cold Beer is to be considered]. I was thinking that by parting with a couple Arcades and at least one pinball, I could gain more space to hang out in, anticipating some Post-Covid parties.

But, here I am a few days after New Years rolling a Joust into the basement. The model of self control! [/not]

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Not.. 100%, After all.

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Similar to my Robotron, the game was missing the Williams D-8784 5773-09679-00 linear power supply; replaced instead with an oddly mounted 8-liner switching power supply.

The switching power supplies and the 6809 CPU creates an issue where the CMOS gets flooded with crap on power down.

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ArcadeShop designed and sells a nifty adapter that aims to add support for switching power supplies to games that were designed for the characteristics of a linear power supply. They typically support the original connections to prevent the need from hacking up a factory harness though they do sometimes require you to tap into the switched power interlock loop.

They often have some idiosyncrasies to overcome but work well if you spend time in the conversion.

Unfortunately, at the time of this project [not-a-project], these $40 little beauties were out of stock.

Weighing My Options

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In Summary…

  • Covered up side art

  • Missing the correct power supply, includes the wrong one

  • Possibly Related Main Board Issues

  • Malfunctioning Marquee Light (Ballast, seemingly)

  • No Player 1 Right Movement (IO Board and/or Ribbon Cables)

  • Wrong Joysticks

  • Swollen Front Bottom
    (Mop Cleanup at end of shift from the Pizza Joint or Bowling Alley)

  • It is not playable.

Originality vs Pragmatism

At this point, I’m thinking that I’m going to be at least a couple hundred more dollars into the game before I can even play the first match on it. The rabbit hole of PCB stuff, power supply stuff and whatever else isn’t something I have spare brain cycles for at this very moment. I just want it working but I also don’t want to do anything overtly hackish or irreversible.

FPGA Time

I’m a huge fan of FPGA boards for these games. The Williams Multi FPGA board in my Robotron has been running solid for years and is mostly indistinguishable from the “real thing.” Luckily, at the time of this project, the JROK Designed Williams Multi wSysFPGA Board was in stock.

The downside of this approach is that it requires a switch over to JAMMA. I also picked up a fresh JAMMA Harness and a HAPP 20 Amp Power supply.

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Instead of fooling with the old ballast that has an odd range of tube size / support wattages and instead of using a ballast bypass LED tube, I went with this 12” GE Fixture mostly because of availability locally and selectable brightness. 12” fits exactly between the original fluorescent tube mounting posts - so no modifications to the original were performed. If I feel super-OCD later, I can go back to the original fluorescent tube.

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I tucked away the old power origination block and ISO Trans. Using a spare 1/2” wood block, I mounted a fresh isolation transformer and terminal block and wired in a new cabinet power switch, neatly zip tying all of the old wiring but leaving it in the cabinet.

This also bypasses the interlocks, which I neither want nor need with this setup. This wiring method bypasses the switches on the power supply itself but there is a way to wire in a 4 conductor switch to the power supply itself through a 4 position molex. I never have been able to find the proper wiring for that thing, so I usually just do this.

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